Fewer designers know their girl more than Peter Dundas. He walks her on the red carpet, he parties with her in Mykonos and when she decides to settle down – as settled down as a Cavalli girl can get – he makes her a wow wedding dress. This evening’s show was an ode to that girl and to hedonistic summers spent flitting between Greece and Ibiza, and maybe a mega-yacht in Sardinia. Ok, yes, the venue may have been trussed up like a Bedouin in Marrakech maybe, but you’ll find her in Scorpios from late afternoon to dawn.
A Cavalli girl protests to be a hippy at heart, albeit an expensive hippy, one who wears low slung Bellini-coloured velvet flares with crystal embroidery, a triangle bra top, a serpent cuff worn on the upper arm and a silk fringed cape combo. This season, she can have a whole wardrobe of capes, from ombre dyed to embroidered and studded suede, all with lashings of fringe. A cape works for her, it’s dramatic and showy and ideal for places like LA; she’ll wear it to Burning Man, when a jacket is too bothersome. There were jackets too, teeny tiny cropped ones in elaborate patchworks laced up the back like a corset. Patchwork was a recurring theme, mixing and matching fabrics but also knitting together eras and inspirations – everything popped up here from Navajo and Apache tribes to Egyptian textiles, African prints and even platform wooden clogs, borrowed from Scandinavian dress. If some of it appeared ad hoc thrown together – that’s part of the appeal here – then the gossamer beaded gowns, some with circular peepholes at the hip, were unequivocally standout.